Sponsored by WAW Handplanes
Thomas Leitch: Freelance Journalist, Graphic Designer and Events Manager for the Noosa Festival of Surfing.
YOUR HANDPLANE OF CHOICE?
WAW Arrow Moontail:
I love the natural look - keeps me connected to nature. The moontail has excellent trim, pulling you down the line with plenty of lift and minimal spray and generally more versatile in all kinds of conditions. But in the heavy, hollow beachies in Bali, the fish was my best friend.
Where do you call home?
Been living out of a backpack for a year, but Sunshine Beach, Noosa Heads is home at the moment.
What got you into bodysurfing?
My father taught me to bodysurf when I was three. Growing up in the UK, we were the odd ones out, but it stuck with me. Surfing for many years, the crowds became too much and I often reverted to bodysurfing to get clean, empty beach breaks to myself. I haven't picked up a surfboard in over two years and now bodysurfing is the only way to slide for me. It's so much more natural and free on every level and feels more pure, unconstrained by fashion, crowds, breaks or anything.
WHAT WAVE TYPES DO YOU PREFER TO BODYSURF?
A wave ridden is a good wave and I love diversity. Length of ride definitely scores high, but having surfed sloppy windswells in the Gulf of Thailand, heaving beach breaks in Canggu, Bali, the long points of Noosa and everything in between, it has shown me that every wave has something to offer. A little bit of size, a little bit of power, hollow enough to hear the roar, but not so big as to take away the pure, simple pleasure. I love a wave that is open to variance: spinners, barrels, long trim and cutbacks. Going in a straight line can be addictive, but it's the waves that mix things up that stick with you.
YOUR 3 FAVOURITE BODYSURFING BREAKS?
Echo Beach, Canggu, Bali - ledgy and powerful
Broken Head, Byron Bay - glassy beach breaks that can hold some size without getting super-gnarly
Main Beach, Noosa Heads - good wedges on the right swells and good memories with Mark Cunningham
Get In touch with Thomas and check out his work at:
Email: thomas@subcutanea.com.au
Blog: www.subcutanea.com.au
Facebook: www.facebook.com/wordsbysubcutanea